Water Wave Dispersion ω(k)

This interactive simulator explores Water Wave Dispersion ω(k) in Waves & Sound. Shallow k√(gh), deep √(gk), full tanh(kh) — three curves. Use the controls to change the scenario; watch the visualization and any graphs or readouts to connect the model with lectures, labs, and homework.

Who it's for: Best once you already know the basic definitions and want to build intuition. Typical context: Waves & Sound.

Key terms

  • water
  • wave
  • dispersion
  • water wave dispersion
  • waves
  • sound

How it works

**Dispersion** links **ω** and **k**. **Shallow** water (**λ ≫ h**): **ω ≈ k√(gh)**, **linear** in **k** (**nondispersive** **phase** speed **√(gh)**). **Deep** water (**λ ≪ h**): **ω ≈ √(gk)** (**dispersive**). The **yellow** curve is the **full** **gravity–water** relation **ω² = g k tanh(k h)** — **deep** and **shallow** are **asymptotes** for small/large **kh**.

Key equations

ω² = g k tanh(kh) → deep: tanh→1 · shallow: tanh→kh